How to install the injector line heaters:

The heater consist of a resistor wire inside of a high temperature woven ceramic insulation. The white insulation is to prevent to resistor wire from contacting the metal injector line.  If the wire is allowed to touch any metal it will likely short out!

Step #1. Remove the injector lines if possible to do a better job on the installation. Bend the resistor wire to conform to the shape of the injector lines. Take care not to damage the insulation. Use care to make sure the contact area of the heater is the same for each injector line (about 4-6" of contact on each line).  Most times the heater can be used full length for all injector lines. In some cases it is necessary or advantageous to make a wire jumper between the injector lines. If this is the case we suggest purchasing our jumper wire kit.

Step #2 After the routing is determined. Cut a few pieces of the orange silicone tape and use it to secure the heater to the injector lines. Always make sure to keep the tape as tight as possible. But not too tight!

Step #3 Secure the entire contact area of the heater to each of the injector lines using  the orange silicone tape. Cut the tape into 4-6" long strips to make it easier to work with. Be sure to wrap the heater tightly to the injector lines. Be patient... we know the tape is difficult to work with but if you take your time and use care a nice appearance can be obtained.  Use a tool like a screwdriver or a pick to help fish the tape between the injector lines. This step can take up to an hour or more to do correctly . 

Step #4 Coat the exposed area between the injector lines with high temperature Red silicone RTV (not included but available in a tube @ your local auto parts store)  use your fingers to rub the silicone into the fibers of the white ceramic insulation. After you are done take an hour or two to let the silicone dry.

Step #5 If you removed the injector lines re-install them.

Step #6 Use a crimp tool to connect the ring terminal to the ground wire (the green wire) and secure it to a bolt on the engine. We like to use a hole located on the power steering pump. Connect the other wire (red) to a circuit inside the fuse panel that has power when the ignition is in the accessory position. On a Benz you can usually use a spade terminal to slide over the fuse. You will need to spread the spade terminal out a liitle so it fits on the fuse tab. On other vehicles we add a circuit. (on a w123 Benz we like to use the accessory circuit # 4 fuse) 

Step # 7 The heaters will melt any vacuum lines or other wires that are allowed to contact them. Before starting the engine check to make sure none of the linkage, wires or hoses are rubbing or will be allowed to touch the injector lines or heaters. Also inspect the injector return lines to make sure they are in good condition and not leaking. If there is any sign of leakage they MUST be replaced before you operate the vehicle.  After the installation is complete start the engine and check for even heating by feeling the injector line near the injectors. Caution: be careful since after a few minutes of running the injector line gets really hot!  If you are curious how hot the injector lines are getting a simple cooking thermometer will tell you the temperature by  securing it to the line just prior to the injector. Or get a infra red thermometer and have some fun checking everything! Your finished installation  should look something like this:

Sometimes it is best to install jumpers between the injector lines.  If this is necessary you should purchase our jumper wire kit. This kit is not needed for the Benz. Wire and connectors are contained in the package to make a jumper between the injectors. Before you cut the insulation coat the it with red high temperature RTV and let it dry to prevent fraying.  To crimp the wire you MUST use a crimper that looks like this.

Make sure that each wire goes all the way through the connector. The completed crimped connection should look like this.

After you crimp the connection, you must wrap the bare metal connection with the silicon tape to prevent contact with the metallic injector lines. Then install the heaters on the injector lines. If the edges are sharp remove and re-install the anti vibration clamps after rounding the sharp edges like this: The clamp on the right has been ground down.

Here's how we like to connect the wires to the fuse panel.

The finished installation should look something like this:

Installation instruction for the A-1 filter on 77-85 Benz:

These instruction are specific to the Benz but can also be used to install an A-1 in other vehicles. Mount the WVO filter under the hood at the left front corner in the location where the windshield washer tank is. The filter is too tall for the hood to close so you must cut a hole in the inside of the fender well for clearance. The bottom of the filter must protrude through the fender well. The filter must be mounted vertically. The filter must be located as far foreword as possible so the tire does not contact it (see pictures). After cutting the hole, mount the filter by welding or bolting a piece of angle to the frame or sheet metal. Here's some pictures to show what it should look like.

After the filter is mounted you must connect the fuel and coolant hoses. Locate the fuel supply tube (it's the one that supply's the lift pump located on the side of the injection pump. Use 5/16" fuel hose and connect the line to the filter inlet (located on the side just under the heating jacket) Use a 5/16 barbed x 1/4" male pipe fitting on the supply on the filter. The filter outlet is on the bottom. Use a 5/16" or 3/8" barb x 1/4" male pipe to connect a supply hose to the fuel pump. (We recommend you switch to an electric fuel pump see direction for on demand fuel system) Next you need to connect the coolant supply and return hoses. In should be at the bottom and out should be at the top on the A-1 filter jacket. For coolant supply cut the heater hose that comes out of the head on the drivers side of the engine. Place a 5/8" T in the stock hose. Then connect a 5/8" hose to the bottom fitting on the A-1 filter jacket. Next install an second 5/8" T into the heater hose located on the passenger side at the front of the engine near the water pump. Connect a hose to the top of the jacket to the T.  Fill the cooling system, bleed the air from the fuel system start and check for leaks. We also recommend installing a shot section of clear hose in place of the cigar shaped hose on the fuel return. This is allows you to check for air leaks in the system. after a few minutes running the clear hose should no longer have bubbles moving through it.

How to make and install the 12 volt filter heater kit:

Take a new filter and wrap the aluminum foil tape around it sticky side out like this.

Then wrap the filter with the heater like this.

Then Wrap the heater wire and filter with the foil tape sticky side in. The filter heater should look like this.

Finally, wrap the heater with silicone tape and it should look like this.

The sleeve is removable and can be re-installed on new filters like this.

You can use a large hose clamp on bottom of the filter to keep it mounted if you like. To do this, wrap extra aluminum tape towards the bottom of the filter to give the clamp something to grab on to.

Here's a picture showing the 2 fuel pumps and the A-1 filter used on an inline injection pump Dodge conversion.

This photo show an installation on a TDI

Simple Single Tank for Benz Instructions:

Here is a picture of our simple single tank system without a heated filter. Start by removing the fuel supply line and inline filter down at the bottom of the injection pump . The order of appearance from the fuel supply line would be, 1) 100 watt heater. 2) in line filter 3) Boost Pump, then back to the mechanical lift pump located on the Injection pump. Use the #4 fuse for the Injection Line heaters. This will allow you to pre heat BEFORE you energize the glow plugs on cold mornings. Use the # 12 & 14 fuse for the Electrotherm heater and the boost pump. This will energize the inline heater and pump to come on when the car is running. The Injection Line Heaters will stay on while driving along with the heater and pump. Install the modified banjo bolt on the 3 way return fitting located on the filter housing. Be sure to use the aluminum sealing washers that are on your car with the new bolt. I like to ground the Electrotherm heater and the pump under the tach amplifier. The pump comes with quick release terminals installed so that the provided power wire can only be plugged in with the correct polarity. Be sure that the outlet side of the pump is going towards the engine. The pump has "OUT" stamped on it. Use one of the 3 holes that mercedes was nice enough to provide in the fender to mount the pump. This way there is no drilling involved and the system can easily be removed if so desired. You can still run diesel or any mixture thereof. If running more than 80% diesel the heaters should be turned off.

Your Done! Now the magic word......FILTERS. Always carry extra filters with you. Vegi will clean out your tank and you will be changing filters often for the first month or so depending on the miles you drive. You'll know when it's time. Car losing power going up a hill? Spin on filter. Car idling poorly? Pre filter. The clear inline pre filter is now next to the boost pump so it's easy to see and easier to change. You'll be surprised how much gunk is in your tank! After all the big stuff is cleaned from your tank the clear filter will last longer than the spin on filter. Your filter life will vary depending on the quality of oil you use. I change mine about every 1000 miles regardless of performance. Helpful hint..... Use automatic transmission fluid to fill the spin on fiter when changing. This will help keep your injectors clean.

Enjoy!

How to convert the early Powerstroke diesel to WVO.

Here are some picture of the installation.

Remove the fuel pump from the engine. Install rag in the intakes to prevent anything from falling in to the engine. Then remove the low pressure FP from the top of the HP pump and install the pump modification.

Reinstall the fuel pump.

Remove the filter housing and drill a hole as shown.

Tap the hole with a 1/8" NPT tap.

Disassemble the filter and blow it clean using high pressure air. The re assemble. Make sure to remove all metal shavings. ATTENTION!!! This is a left hand thread.

Use RTV silicone on the threads and install fittings as shown.

Mount valves as shown. Plumb flow according to the diagram. With the engine running adjust the pressure with the bolt on the top of the high pressure fuel pump. Install a temporary 100 PSI pressure gauge to set the rail pressure.